DAY 12 Tokyo – Thursday 6th April 2023

When we woke on Thursday morning we realised, with much sadness, we only had two or so days left in Japan. It was time to go hard and see and experience as much of this city as possible while we could.

Thursday, for me at least, was all about food.

We had originally booked only our last two nights in Tokyo and were going to visit an Onsen town for two nights before coming back here. I am glad we changed our minds on that because this place has too much to do in four days, let alone two. For this reason, we had two different hotels booked and so on Thursday morning we needed to move from one hotel to the other. I had a tour of the Tsukiji fish markets booked, with a start time of 11am.

As I mentioned yesterday, the wholesale part of the markets moved a few years ago to a bigger and newer premises and what remains in the Tsukiji area is referred to as the “Tsukiji Outer Market”, the area that originally surrounded the large fresh food market, but still remains as lots of seafood related open air stalls. Fortunately, the outer district of Tsukiji Market is still very much in business and thriving with its old-school charm! Tsukiji Outer Market sits next to the former site of the wholesale market and continues to consist of plenty of large and small vendors, retail stores, and restaurants despite the actual market’s sites relocation to Toyosu.

Dave took all our bags and in a taxi across town to the new hotel, while I took a 15-minute bus trip from the current hotel across to the Tsukiji are where I met Tommy, the guide for today’s tour. Five others joined me on the tour, two Canadians, two Mexicans and a young Israeli girl. All of us were enthusiastic to learn more about this area of the city and Tommy did a great job showing us around and giving us many tastings of the fantastic food on offer.

We started the tour with a little talk about the area, its history and culture. We stepped into a Buddhist Shrine, even asking for a blessing for the day and each burning some incense. We then headed into the market area and our first taste of the tour was some freshly sliced belly of Tuna sashimi. The tuna was soft, delicate and really delicious; then we enjoyed some raw scallops and raw prawns, both of which were incredible – fresh, a little salty from the little drizzle of soy and oh so sweet. I would never have thought raw prawns could taste so good!

As we wandered through the markets (along with thousands of others), we saw so many fabulous sights, fish being prepared to eat, locals queuing for particular seasonal specialities, even some kitchenware and especially knife stalls. It’s quite similar to wet markets you might find in other parts of Asia — a little ramshackle, but lively. It was a bit touristy, but thankfully Tommy knew where to take us and what to buy. 

Next to eat was an omelette. Both sweet and salty at the same time and, served freshly cooked and hot, was really fabulous, the taste and texture quite unique and subtle.

Our next tasting was something I have been meaning to try for ages. In Australia you often see Eel Nigiri (grilled eel laid over sushi rice) but I’ve just never been game enough to select one off the sushi train. Well today I ate grilled eel on a skewer and although I didn’t really love it, it wasn’t too bad and I’m really glad I’ve now tried it.

Next, it was time for our lunch stop at a tiny sushi restaurant above one of the stalls in the street that ran outside the outer market area. We each got to choose a donburi (bowl of rice topped with seafood) and I choose an ‘assorted’ version in order to try as much as I could. As is the case with pretty much everything I have eaten here, it was simply delicious and really, really fresh.

To finish our tastings, we each tasted a couple of the white strawberries that Tommy had bought in the market. Surprisingly, they were extremely sweet. I’m not sure what is wrong with red strawberries – but again good to try something new.

The tour finished with a short walk to a building in nearby Shimbashi, where we took the lift to the top (38th) floor and admired the view over this huge city. Even though I know it’s the biggest city in the world, it takes a view like this to truly appreciate its size!

After farewelling Tommy and the others, I hopped on a train and made my way to the hotel to meet Dave, where he had checked in and unpacked. A quick change and we grabbed a taxi and headed across town to the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, an extremely fancy hotel not far from Tokyo station for our prebooked and highly anticipated high tea!

Dave and I both love a fancy high tea, and this one certainly didn’t disappoint. As we got out of the elevator on the 37th floor we were met by the most beautiful decor, amazing view and attentive, polite and beautifully dressed staff who escorted us to our window-side table overlooking Tokyo! Of course, I had already perused the menu online, and was trying very hard not to over-anticipate what we would eat. Honestly, no amount of anticipation was going to be too much – this was the most incredibly looking and tasting afternoon tea I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating – and that’s a very big call (Sandy’s scones do come a close second!).

I can’t begin to describe well enough each morsel of loveliness that was presented to us on the three-tier platter – but it was all divine (photo of menu might help). We also chose our tea from a very extensive tea and coffee menu, and the small and moist warm lemon and cheese scones that were delivered once we had nearly devoured all of the plattered food were also delectable, though I could only manage one!

Just when I thought things couldn’t get more amazing for our afternoon of indulgence, I visited the rest room. Could this be the best view from a bathroom in the whole world? I think maybe yes!

Our two-hour experience finished all too quickly, but the lovely few kilometres wander along the streets of Tokyo while the sun set, and darkness began was also very enjoyable. Ginza, in particular, shone with all its bright lights, high-end boutiques and department stores, which were teaming with people who were all well dressed and as usual, respectful, despite the crowds.

A train trip back to Akasaka, a bowl of salty edamame and a few tasty Yakitori sticks at a little bar near the station, then back to the hotel. Thursday was a nearly 20,000 step day and I cannot put into words how tired I was by the time we got to our room. Thankfully the traditional ‘Shin-Edo’ wooden bath was quickly filled to help my aching legs before I finally wrote up the blog for the preceding two days. Sorry folks for getting a bit behind!